Whats the issue? I must be missing something but it seems like you can just turn 2mm off the bottom of the barrel.The biggest problem I can think of is the pin hieght, as shaving 2mm off the base will most likely give the same issues as found with the KR1 when fitting the TZ pistons.
The issue is weakening the area around the bolt holes which can lead to cracking. I can't remember how much they shave off the KR1 barrels for the TZ piston conversion, but I know it caused them to crack as the amount of material removed left them too weak to cope.Sheik Yerbouti wrote:Awesome, Looks pretty close.Whats the issue? I must be missing something but it seems like you can just turn 2mm off the bottom of the barrel.The biggest problem I can think of is the pin hieght, as shaving 2mm off the base will most likely give the same issues as found with the KR1 when fitting the TZ pistons.
Yeah I figured this for more of a long term solution as well. I still havent got mine back on the road yet, ( needs little things like fuel line and thermostat ) but the top end is pretty good.Oh well, it gives us all something more to think about anyway. Unfortunately I won't be able to do much in the way of actually attempting this conversion for a while as I don't quite have enough cash left after buying all the bits for the naked conversion
That'd be fantastic!Sheik Yerbouti wrote:Yeah I figured this for more of a long term solution as well. I still havent got mine back on the road yet, ( needs little things like fuel line and thermostat ) but the top end is pretty good.Oh well, it gives us all something more to think about anyway. Unfortunately I won't be able to do much in the way of actually attempting this conversion for a while as I don't quite have enough cash left after buying all the bits for the naked conversion
On the other front, I've been mucking about with a gear lever, I've cut the spline and am looking at the clamp. When I get something rough together I'll send it over to ya if you like and you can try it with your aftermarket rearset.
I'll be more than happy to test it out for you. 
Been trying to work out a secure way of mounting it that isn't so obvious and easy to remove as to invite theft. Ultimately, I'd like it to look like it may have been a factory option to those unformiliar with the bikeSheik Yerbouti wrote: How did you go with the electric dash/instrument cluster?
. I'll be spending some quality time on it this weekend which will hopefully see it monted and wired in, but I'm still undecided whether or not to ireversibly graft it into the harness (which would be much neater and more reliable) or make an adaptor harness so it's just plug and play. I'm leaning towards permanently grafting the Acewell conectors into the harness since I'll already be re-working the layout of the loom to make it tidier with the naked conversion.Just spotted a trick KR on another forum and there's a good close-up photo of the kind of bracket I'm after.Sheik Yerbouti wrote:Not sure what you mean,Gear-lever linkage is a good idea. There's not much space round the shaft so it's tricky trying to adapt non-standard footrests to fit. A splined bracket that moves the linkage outside the frame would be very useful.sketch what you reckon and post it up, I can get measurements off my bike and see what I can come up with. Pretty keen to see what can be done with these bikes, I'm just getting in to it.
Hi Saeid. I never got much futher than planning the basics with this (had thoughts of a longer stroke crank to add capacity and account for the shorter piston), but as usual, other things came up, including buying a house and the reno's that go with it. I've still got the bike up the back of the shed, and I do intend to finish it one of these days, but it's sadly low on the list of priorities at the moment.saeid wrote:Pls tell me did anyone increased the to 300cc or more?
How was the result?
