Final KR Based Race Bike Project

tescr500 · Post by **tescr500** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 7:43 pm

Well done that man, love the fairing, top job there Luders.

Luders · Post by **Luders** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 9:15 pm

tescr500 wrote:Well done that man, love the fairing, top job there Luders.

Thanks Wayne, here's another pic of it for you...

375 · Post by **375** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:03 pm

Ben
You doing any racing at Brands this season.

Luders · Post by **Luders** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:12 pm

I did want to Paul, but it will be right at the end of the year if I do. If not will deffo do it next year with this bike.

tescr500 · Post by **tescr500** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 11:34 pm

Cheers Luders, i do like it, once i finish, anyday now, i might do a kr1s, not to the book though, don't mind a bit of mixing and matching as long as it looks good. Nearly finished the decorating eg nursery and some snagging in the bathroom. Then its bike time, its been nearly a year since i done anything, but keep the photo's coming cheers.

Luders · Post by **Luders** » Sun Jan 27, 2013 3:13 pm

Time for a quick thread update.

Got some SES clipons and fork clamp for the steering damper. I've moved slightly the side fairing mounts and mounted the fairing and primed the fuel tank.

Next job is to sand down the primer to flat out any imperfections and apply more primer, prior to gloss coat.

maccas · Post by **maccas** » Sun Jan 27, 2013 3:27 pm

Hi Ben,

Looking good as always!

Do I spy one of Mark's carb enclosing large airboxes fitted

Dan

Luders · Post by **Luders** » Sun Jan 27, 2013 3:34 pm

maccas wrote:Hi Ben,

Looking good as always!

Do I spy one of Mark's carb enclosing large airboxes fitted

Dan

Yes you do indeed, I was just seeing how it fitted and where I need to modify it. As it stands, it's not too far off from what I need, I just need a bit of space where the rear shock adjuster is and need to make the flanges slightly different, where it meets the lid.

I'm going to take a mould of it as is this week and then modify it to suit this bike.

maccas · Post by **maccas** » Sun Jan 27, 2013 3:50 pm

Awesome!

If you have the time do you reckon you could document how you take the mould and then make the new airbox? I've been looking at videos on youtube of how to make things in fibreglass/ carbon fibre as at some point I'd like to have a go at making a pair of airboxes for my 3xv at some so any hints/ tips would be greatly appreciated

Can't wait to get on track this year, it can't come soon enough!

Cheers,

Dan

Luders · Post by **Luders** » Sun Jan 27, 2013 4:12 pm

I'm documenting the tank fibreglassing on this thread as soon as it's painted.

Same principal applies to the airbox, if that's good enough, or do you want the airbox done too?

maccas · Post by **maccas** » Sun Jan 27, 2013 4:18 pm

The tank will do just fine Ben!

Cheers mate!

Dan

Luders · Post by **Luders** » Mon Jan 28, 2013 6:00 pm

Decided to do the airbox for you Dan, but will also document the tank for others that are interested.

You’ll need a PVA release agent, some wax, gel coat, resin and fibre glass matting. You’ll also need rubber gloves, a decent respirator (this stuff is toxic), something to stir with, some decent scales to weigh your quantities, a small roller, some cheap paint brushes and something to mix the resin and gel coat in.

Step 1. Make sure the part you are taking a mould from is clean and you’ll need to apply a nice even layer of the PVA release agent over the smooth surfaces. In this case, I’ve coated the inside of the airbox. Allow this to dry thoroughly, there’s no point rushing any of this stages.

Step 2. Weigh out your gel coat and hardener ensuring you get the correct ratio and mix together thoroughly. I have picked a white gel coat to use here, as it contrasts the black of the airbox and makes it easier for me to see that I’m applying it evenly, ensuring I don’t miss any areas. I used about 60g for this area to give you an idea of quantity. You need to leave this to dry for a couple of hours, but not completely. When you touch it, it shouldn’t be wet and come off on your fingers, but it should feel tacky.

Step 3. Weigh out your resin and again ensure it’s all mixed thoroughly. Cut your fibre matting to manageable sizes and apply to the surface of the gel coat with the resin. Make sure you get the fibre all the way into the corners using a stippling action with one of the brushes. Build this up with a few layers of matting, going over with the roller to ensure they are bonded well on each layer. Trim the ragged edges whilst it’s still wet with a pair of scissors and allow to dry thoroughly.

Step 4. Remove the part from the mould, clean up any imperfections with a fine wet and dry. You can use a cutting compound to get a really shiny finish. The better the finish of the mould, the better the product that come out, which is especially important if you are thinking of using this mould to create carbon fibre parts. Finally apply several layers of wax to the mould, allowing each layer to dry first.

Now you have a perfect mould to take your part from, repeat steps 1 to 4, using the gel coat colour of your choice.

maccas · Post by **maccas** » Mon Jan 28, 2013 6:17 pm

Ben!

Thanks ever so much that is awesome!

A couple of questions though, could you recommend a supplier of the PVA release agent, gel coat, hardener and resin? What type of resin do you use?

Thanks again mate that is just what I was looking for!

Dan

Post by **500bernie** » Mon Jan 28, 2013 6:22 pm

Hi Ben,

That was brilliant, always wondered how it was done

This is probably a stupid question (if it is at least everyone can have a laugh), the mold you have made is of the inside (internal/plug), do you now do the same to the exterior surface of the mold you just made to give you the finished mold for making the parts from, i.e; step 1 make a plug, step 2 make the finished product mold, step 3 make the products?

Cheers
Bernie

Luders · Post by **Luders** » Mon Jan 28, 2013 6:32 pm

I'll give the outside of the airbox a coating of the black gel coat to give it a more desirable finish.