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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:46 pm
by fred
finnished work at 1 today and was blown down to staub in chippenham ,all nickel plateing should be done by next friday

,and i can`t wait ,jobs to do this week ,rebuild forks ,and meticulously clean the workshop ,been mucking about with a old bike i made in 98 and have now bought back,

one day ,one day when money and time is on my side id`e still love to make a brazed reynolds 631 frame for the kr1s ,i know it makes sence
Posted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 11:52 am
by Bikemike
That looks interesting Fred, more details please!
Mike
Posted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 8:04 pm
by fred
Posted: Sat Mar 19, 2011 12:18 am
by fred
Plateings done .well chuffed .thought ide lost it to recivers takeing over the company .but all's good .ready for the rebuild now .50 quid lighter .skint .but happy .
Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 6:10 pm
by fred

ive realy got to start getting some hours in now

,evenings this week and next is the only free time ive got , anyone going on the ride of respect run in wooton basset ?
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 10:18 pm
by tescr500
nice job fred, mines slowly but surely coming along, im waiting for frame and bits from powder coaters, im still plating my own bits they are coming out pretty good, but its all a slow process but an open check book would be nice.
alocrome test done ,shocks treated
Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 7:58 pm
by fred

just shotblasted all the shocks n resevours i have and gave em a alocrome treatment, the chamber i treated about 5 months ago and left it on the fence ,the outside has no corrosion and the inside has a spider and corrosion ,so i think it works.

i think i might do the callipers the same ,the rules seem to be ,ease of maintenance ,no polishing, do 1 build to last er hopefully 5 year ,
Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 7:32 pm
by fred

shocks done ,forks rebuilt, will be a rolling chassis tomorro
Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 8:25 pm
by tescr500
Hi Fred nice job coming along well, looking to look into alochrome sounds good
Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 2:08 pm
by fred

just off to get some fork oil and some stainless fork leg clamp bolts,probably start on the airbox,mudguard and rear end fittings tomoz , looking for a good condition headstock nut

Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 7:32 pm
by fred

finaly had some time to get back on it, silver solderd the 4 rusted holes in the water pipe ,keep em as i can repair them ,seems to rust under the o-rings,mended in 15 mins.
does anyone know the best way to get the plastick back to black ,and i need to have a look if ive forgotten a m5 or m4 stud in the bottom right stator back plate mount ?
Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:24 pm
by Howie
does anyone know the best way to get the plastick back to black
'Back to black' use to be brilliant but I'm not sure if they still make it?
Otherwise its a bit of trial & error with other black plastic polish, Halfords use to sell a bumper polish that was ok but once again, I'm not sure if they still do it.
I have heard of a technique that involves heating the plastic with a hot air gun or hairdryer but I haven't tried it so cannot comment.
Do your plastics have scratches, cos that is another problem altogether

Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 12:07 am
by Top-shaggy
I've tried allsorts on nachelle's, wheel arches, indicators and stems, brake hoses including:
Back to black
Car plan black trim wax
STP Son of a gun
Kiwi black liquid polish
Cherry blossom scuff cover
For me on black hard(ish) plastic my favorite is the cherry blossom scuff cover - sometimes I use a brush to 'paint' it on and buff up once dry. It doesn't go as shiney as this sounds, more satin/matt.
On black rubber I prefer the STP as it seems to soften and clean at the same time.

Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 6:13 pm
by mikekr1s
Not sure whether this will work on this particular plastic and i know this is going to sound odd. A heatgun works on plastic car bumpers and other similar plastics. It worked on my van bumpers.

Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 6:28 pm
by pablo
Tesco's dash shine....................................................honest
