KR-1S.co.uk Forum

Luders wrote:I'll let you know the results, as our setup should be similar under the same conditions.

thanks.

hmm yeah stones are a worry, so I guess the ultimate for me would be a filter that doesnt restrict flow at all. std filter is not free flowing enough, mine is stapled to the cage thing as it gets sucked out of place otherwise.

I suppose a pair of ladies tights over the cage should do the job to stop shit like stones without restricting the airflow.

now all you have to do is find a lady and ask her to take her tights off, i'm sure she'll do it once you've explained its for your kr-1

=D>

great idea,

so.. fitted new temp gauge (feel like I should've just calibrated an original in the end)

not much bother- sensor only just fit and when I tightened up the clamp at the back of gauge the needle swept round to full loosened it off and seemed fine.

also fitted thermostat and ladies tights.

went for short test and few miles later power dropped a bit and noticed temp gauge off the scale (not the best at keeping an eye on this), then noticed engine racing when I pulled the clutch in. home again with minimum revs, high gear, wide throttle etc.

thought it was an air leak and the gauge messing about but slightly worse.
if I hadnt had knee pads on under jeans I might have noticed my leg getting wet

coolant leak and gauge was working properly
very lucky to get home without seizing, compression is still good. cant quite believe it went for even one mile (of the 2 or 3) to get home, at the temp it was indicating 120+

Powervalve cable seized due to melted outer casing.

have a good spare coolant rail but feel like getting stainless or aluminium one made

it never rains but it pours, there was a silver lining though, I think.

Shit, that was lucky in a way dude, it could have been much worse.

What caused the leak?

hole in that steel coolant pipe that runs from the pump, have put an arrow in pic.

I got you now.

That's how I killed mine last time. Temp needle was off the gauge and my mechanic says it wasn't even connected. But head off and a little look see down the barrels and there was 8 weld marks where the engine stopped turning.

well..

replaced coolant link pipe, fixed PV cables, seemed to run OK
A quick spin showed overheat on first bit of open road, coolant being pumped.

fitted new head gasket, (and PV seals which were needed anyway) and back on the road

had a good spin other day (bit windy but dry at least) actually running too cold now. will be trying warmer plugs and taped up rad etc.