KR-1S.co.uk Forum

Hi Ben,
Did not actually read age details, just pasted from the supplier email, I will check with them again.
Cheers,
Bernie

A width of 392mm would mean its got the same width as the TDM one, but being considerably higher and thicker.

Charles

Just tried: the TDM rad fits within the original fairing, it's a tight fit (only a few mm space to the left and right), but it does fit).

So this chinese one should fit as well, the 3cm it's approx. higher than the original rad shouldn't be a problem.

Charles

Hi Guys,

No reply from China yet to confirm the sizes they provided to me.

But I contacted the other supplier (Scotland):

June 24, 2011, 9:40 am
Re: ATV YFZ450 performance aluminum radiator free hose kit - Red

Can you provide me with the measurements of the above radiator and the diameter of the hose connections please

and this is what they have replied with

29 June 2011 12:13 pm
Hi Bernie, overall size hight 392mm x width 256mm x depth 54mm. core siz= e hight 306mm x width 178mm x 40mm depth, 30% more capacity than your stoc= k radiator. The hoses are the same diameter as the original hoses.

Is it me

That's not right either, surely the width is determined by the horizontal measurement?
i.e. 392mm!

Anyway, it's not something I'll be considering, but if you want a TDM rad bernie, it's yours mate.

Hi Ben,

I am wondering if I have found the only Chinese radiator supplier in Scotland (do they write vertically down the page? or is that just something I had imagined?)

Cheers,
Bernie

Surely they have just taken the measurements from any information supplied by the Chinks and gone with it.

Reply asking them if they have measured the rad themselves and if so, do they normally take the width measurement horizontally, or are we taught something contrary to the norm here in England.

Will do....
But I will be diplomatic and politically correct.....

Cheers,
Bernie

Detail of YFZ450 chinese aftermarket radiator

19mm (+swage) OD pipes

392mm (~395 cap) x ~210mm (180mm core high) x 50mm
where it gets tight is the join at the belly pan to the top fairing
it narrows to only approx 380mm between inside fairing panels at the join line
? the radiator is above that join - and the fairing/radiator clearance widens to approx 5mm each side ?
I think the taper on the water tanks may allow fitment


50mm thick (45mm core)


polished tanks, painted centre, 3 mount holes for a sucky fan


modify plugs for additional temperature senders


not sure if I would trust the supplied cap (pressure)
filler neck is a tiny bit rough (cap hard to remove - needs a bit of dremel tweak)... but what do you want for all-up couriered < US$100... this one was $125

Ok guys, i tried the TDM radiator and guess what??? it dont bloody work!! the bike was running at 80 degrees and it wasnt a hot day (18 c ambiant) which is 5 degrees higher that the RGV radiator, so where do we go with this then because some people are telling me the TDM radiator is the way to go...Clearly not!

andy b wrote:Ok guys, i tried the TDM radiator and guess what??? it dont bloody work!! the bike was running at 80 degrees and it wasnt a hot day (18 c ambiant) which is 5 degrees higher that the RGV radiator, so where do we go with this then because some people are telling me the TDM radiator is the way to go...Clearly not!

Has the radiator been thoroughly flushed (could have blockages), and what thermostat are you running in it now?

sure everything else is ok ? mixture not too lean (plug colour ?)

I think the only issue here, is the volume of the TDM rad compared to the VJ22 rad Andy replaced it with is less, therefore not as efficient.

The engine is sweet and runs great, fueling spot on! the rad is clean !! the problem with the Tdm 850 radiator is its to small, i run a Schitsu Temperature gauge so i get a acurate reading.
Im running a standard Kr1s thermostat.

.
.
the factors that might be affecting your situation...

Heat transfer - if there was corrosion (furry) inside the used radiator maybe affecting the transfer of heat from water/fin/air - remedy chemical flush (BUT IS CLEAN)

Trapped Air - if the cooling circuit wasnt bled properly there could be a pocket of air allowing local boiling or hindering the flow of coolant circulation.
The fitment of a non-oem radiator may mean there is a hose path that now contains a loop (or a high point in it) where air acculmulated and has not burped out.
Like a brake line doesnt work if the is a compressible medium in between, your water pump may not be able to flush all air out on its own.

Pump - maybe some crap washed out of the used radiator and is partly clogging the pump (you never know what crawls inside used parts) - running on Thermosyphon effect only

Thermostat - if the thermostat became broke (fails closed) the flow would be imparied. DUH

Radiator cap - if the seal on the cap was damaged or the cap (used) no longer pressurised, the water might boil at lower than normal temperature (>100° for glycol mix). Not applicable as youve stated the temp (was at normal 75-80°C for a road bike)