KR-1S.co.uk Forum

Goodmorning boys,anyone know the the length of kr1s con rod??is 106mm???? center to center??

thanks spyros

Spyros yes that is correct 106mm c to c 29mm big end and 21mm small end eye diameters.

T.S.I thanks a lot ,for the KR-1S all the parts is NLA here(greece)so i have to find cod rod and the other parts i need from an other 2stroke to fit.

Kawasaki were not that good on kr1/s engine parts. Apart from pistons and the complete crankshaft - both i think are NLA

But non OEM parts can be sourced. Not sure about Greece, but from UK, see links below for top and bottom end parts

http://www.pjme.co.uk/acatalog/Kawasaki ... m_End.html

http://www.pjme.co.uk/acatalog/Kawasaki ... p_End.html

A good idea what is available from big K is here
http://www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-kr250_model12470/

some info on cranks etc
viewtopic.php?t=4235

And lastly, from some of the guys on the forum
viewtopic.php?t=5247

Buz

s.mx51 wrote:T.S.I thanks a lot ,for the KR-1S all the parts is NLA here(greece)so i have to find cod rod and the other parts i need from an other 2stroke to fit.

conrod's never were available from Kawasaki, it was a full cranck or nothing.

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JAN IS STRICTLY CORRECT

however the XXXX 4 digits stamped on side of the rod are the last 4 digits of the part number

possibly prefixed by something like 13032-XXXX = 13032-1156 <<< Good Luck getting that one

thanks to BUZINC

these are the Wiseco dimensions...
Catalog # / Make / Model / Year / Center to Center / Upper Bore / Lower Bore / Upper Thickness / Lower Thickness
WPR128 KawasakiSuzuki KX60KX65RM60RM65 84 - 0300 - 070303 - 04 85 16 26 14 14
WPR129 Kawasaki KX80KDX80KX100 82 - 9782 - 8895 - 97 92 18 28 15.9 14
WPR171 Kawasaki KX80KX85KX100RM100 98 - 0001 - 0798 - 0703 - 04 92 18 28 14 14
WPR136 Suzuki RM80 91 - 01 93.5 18 26 16 14
WPR191 Suzuki RM85 2-Jun 93.5 18 26 13.9 13.9
WPR196 Yamaha YZ250FWR250F 3-Jun 93.5 16 40 15 18
WPR139 Yamaha YZ80YZ85 93 - 0102 - 06 96 18 26 14 14
WPR120 h***a CR80CR85 86 - 0203 - 06 97 18 26 14.2 14.2
WPR160 Suzuki RM125 97 - 98 100 19 28 18 16
WPR177 Suzuki RM125 99 - 03 102 19 28 18 16
WPR197 Yamaha YZ450FWR450F 03 - 0503 - 06 103.5 18 42 18 20
WPR122 h***a CR125 85 - 87 104 18 28 16 16
WPR123 h***a CR125 88 - 07 104 19 29 16 16
WPR165 Kawasaki KX125 98 - 02 104 19 29 17 17
WPR137 Suzuki RM125 88 - 96 105 19 28 18 15.8
WPR140 Yamaha YZ125 86 - 96 105 20 29 17 17
WPR174 Yamaha YZ125 97 - 00 105 20 29 17 17
WPR183 Yamaha YZ125 1-Jun 105 19 29 16 17
WPR198 h***a CRF450 4-Jun 105.5 19 42 18 19.85

WPR130 Kawasaki KX125 81 - 8792 - 93 106 21 29 17 17

WPR132 Kawasaki KX125 94 - 97 106 19 29 17 17
WPR199 Suzuki RMZ450 5-Jun 106 19 42 18.4 19.8
WPR131 Kawasaki KX125KDX200KDX220 88 - 9189 - 0497 - 04 109 21 29 17 17
WPR158 Yamaha Banshee 87 - 06 110 21 29 18 17
WPR170 Yamaha Blaster all yrs. 110 21 29 18 17
WPR195 Suzuki RM125 4-Jun 110 19 28 18 15.9
WPR178 Yamaha Banshee Long Rod 87 - 06 115 21 29 18 17
WPR110 SkiDoo 440 Twin 79 - 93 120 22 30 15 15
WPR112 SkiDoo 503 Twin 120 22 30 15 15
WPR154 Polaris 650/750/780 SL PTO 120 23 32.3 15.8 15.8
WPR126 h***a XR400 96 - 04 122.6 20 43 19 20
WPR133 Kawasaki KX250 78 - 07 125 22 32 22 20
WPR142 Yamaha YZ250 90 - 98 125 23 32 20 20
WPR173 Yamaha YZ250 99 - 06 125 22 31 20 16.75
WPR192 Suzuki RM250 3-Jun 125 23 32 19.8 19.8
WPR124 h***a CR250ATC250TRX250 84 - 0185 - 8686 125.3 22 31 20 16.75
WPR161 Suzuki RM250 96 - 02 125.5 23 32 19.75 19.75
WPR138 Suzuki RM250 87 - 95 128 23 32 22 20
WPR141 Yamaha YZ250 83 - 89 130 23 32 20 20
WPR169 Polaris 350400 thru 03 130 23 34 19.8 19.8
WPR156 h***a TRX250 87 - 89 130.3 22 31 16.85 16.85
WPR135 KTM 250300 90 - 99 132 22 31 17 17
WPR150 Kawasaki JS650JF650 133 22 32 22 20
WPR151 Kawasaki JS750JS900 93 - 96all yrs. 133 25 34 22 20
WPR152 Kawasaki JS750SX800R 95 - 0203 - 04 133 27 36 22 20
WPR185 Yamaha GP800GP1200 all yrs.00 - up 135 27 34 21 21
WPR193 Yamaha Raptor 660cc 1 136.5 22 45 22 22
WPR182 SeaDoo 951Rave 98 - 04 140 25 36 19.9 19.9
WPR176 Suzuki LT500R 87 - 90 143 23 32 22 20
WPR166 h***a CR500 87 - 01 144 25 34 24 19.8
WPR164 Kawasaki KX500 85 - 04 145 24 33 22 22

?? I think the rod flywheel/crank pin and bearings is the same part as KDX200 ??
!! the KDX200 rod is longer !!
?? the gudgeon pin/wristpin on the KR is unique length/part number??

This guy sells them, I had a set & Graham File rebuilt my crank think they were £160.00 a set "probably gone up now though" email him as he dosen't have them listed anymore
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/firefoxracinguk

WPR130 Kawasaki KX125 81 - 8792 - 93 106 21 29 17 17

WPR132 Kawasaki KX125 94 - 97 106 19 29 17 17

either of these two rods would do the trick

so far the best fit look like the:

KX 125 81-87
KX 125 92-93

the kx 125 94-97 had diferent piston pin is 15/19

the KMX 125 IS like the kx125 81-87 and 92-93,the only diferense is the crank pin LENGTH.

KR-1S IS 53MM LENGTH
KX125 81-87,92-93 IS 51MM LENGTH
KMX 125 ALL YEARS IS 54MM LENGTH ON ALL THIS MONDELS THE OTHERS DIMENSIONS IS EXACTLY THE SAME!!!!LIKE KR-1S!!!
.but i don'tknow if the crank pin has to do with the balance of the crank,so if has, the KMX 125 looks the best fit(for my opinion)machine down 1 mm on the crank pin length and the weight across to KR-1S pin.the kx125 is shorter 2mm,is weight less the KR-1S?? i don't know!!!this 2mm is afect the balance of the crank??i don't know.so i believe KMX is the winner???!!!

Crank pin is irrelevant. The pin is part of the crank throw on the KR. Just buy the KX/KMX rod kit and don't use the pin. Or buy the rod kit from PJME.

Crank pin is irrelevant??
check this out:

Bob Weight Blues
When it comes to any kind of crankshaft purchase or if you are considering adding a set of new, lightweight pistons to an existing engine, balancing that rotating assembly can be challenging. One of the references you will run across is something called bob weight. This spec refers to the mass located on a single crankshaft journal that includes both the reciprocating and rotating weight portions of the entire assembly. Rotating weight refers to the mass of the bottom half of the connecting rod that is attached to the crankshaft. The reciprocating weight is basically everything from the middle of the connecting rod upward, including the piston, wristpin, and rings.

Every high-performance crankshaft has a specific bob weight value, such as 1,800 grams. A gram is a metric measurement equivalent to 11/428 ounce. An 1,800-gram bob weight is basically the amount of weight in each of the counterweights. However, you don't just add all the values up to determine bob weight. The formula is 100 percent of the rotating weight plus 50 percent of the reciprocating weight. Let's use an example to see how this breaks down:

Rotating weight (gm.) Reciprocating weight (gm.)
Rod bearing 50
Rod big end 420
Rod small end 180
Piston 450
Wristpin 80
Rings 38
Oil 2
Subtotal 470 750
Before we go further, remember we have a pair of reciprocating weights (two pistons) per crank journal. The math looks like this:

Half of reciprocating weight is 750/2 = 375 x 2 pistons per journal = 750 grams, while total rotating weight is 470 x 2 = 940 grams. Thus 750 + 940 = 1,690 grams.
If the bob weight figure for your new crankshaft is more than the bob weight of your new rods, pistons, and rings, then weight must be removed from the crankshaft in order to balance the assembly. This is a relatively simple task of precision-drillng a few holes in the crankshaft counterweights. If the bob weight figure for the crankshaft is lighter than the piston-and-rod combo, Mallory metal must be added to the crankshaft. Mallory is a very dense metal, more than twice the density of steel. A 11/42-inch-diameter, 31/44-inch-long slug of Mallory weighs 43 grams. The problem is that drilling a hole to place the Mallory in the crank removes roughly 24 grams, so the net gain is only about 19 grams. Thus adding 50 grams can be expensive because Mallory metal isn't cheap. It also means that researching your stroker-engine package carefully to avoid major balancing headaches and expenses is well worth the effort.

falconman wrote: Or buy the rod kit from PJME.

why going through the trouble of searching for a fitting conrod/balancing/.... if you can just buy a straight fit ...

s.mx51 wrote:Crank pin is irrelevant??
check this out:

Bob Weight Blues
When it comes to any kind of crankshaft purchase or if you are considering adding a set of new, lightweight pistons to an existing engine, balancing that rotating assembly can be challenging. One of the references you will run across is something called bob weight. This spec refers to the mass located on a single crankshaft journal that includes both the reciprocating and rotating weight portions of the entire assembly. Rotating weight refers to the mass of the bottom half of the connecting rod that is attached to the crankshaft. The reciprocating weight is basically everything from the middle of the connecting rod upward, including the piston, wristpin, and rings.

Every high-performance crankshaft has a specific bob weight value, such as 1,800 grams. A gram is a metric measurement equivalent to 11/428 ounce. An 1,800-gram bob weight is basically the amount of weight in each of the counterweights. However, you don't just add all the values up to determine bob weight. The formula is 100 percent of the rotating weight plus 50 percent of the reciprocating weight. Let's use an example to see how this breaks down:

Rotating weight (gm.) Reciprocating weight (gm.)
Rod bearing 50
Rod big end 420
Rod small end 180
Piston 450
Wristpin 80
Rings 38
Oil 2
Subtotal 470 750
Before we go further, remember we have a pair of reciprocating weights (two pistons) per crank journal. The math looks like this:

Half of reciprocating weight is 750/2 = 375 x 2 pistons per journal = 750 grams, while total rotating weight is 470 x 2 = 940 grams. Thus 750 + 940 = 1,690 grams.
If the bob weight figure for your new crankshaft is more than the bob weight of your new rods, pistons, and rings, then weight must be removed from the crankshaft in order to balance the assembly. This is a relatively simple task of precision-drillng a few holes in the crankshaft counterweights. If the bob weight figure for the crankshaft is lighter than the piston-and-rod combo, Mallory metal must be added to the crankshaft. Mallory is a very dense metal, more than twice the density of steel. A 11/42-inch-diameter, 31/44-inch-long slug of Mallory weighs 43 grams. The problem is that drilling a hole to place the Mallory in the crank removes roughly 24 grams, so the net gain is only about 19 grams. Thus adding 50 grams can be expensive because Mallory metal isn't cheap. It also means that researching your stroker-engine package carefully to avoid major balancing headaches and expenses is well worth the effort.

Yes, on the KR the pin that would come with a KX/KMX rod kit is completely irrelevant. Look at a KR crank. The rod pin is part of the crank throw. It can not be changed. Look else where on this site for pics of the KR crank and you will understand what I mean.

i would like to use parts made in japan,to keep the case of failure to minimum,to rebuilt the crank isn't cheap.i trust your experiense on kr-1s, so looks like the kx/kmx con rod is no problem!!!!
thanks for the info and your help boys!!!
i appreciate!!!
spyros

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the OEM conrod kit (rod, pin bearings) for the '85-'87, '93 KX125
is 13044-5065
the individual part number for the rod in this kit is 13032-1200 (supplied by Ebay seller and matches fiche for KX125J2 ='93)

I'm only going by info from the internet here - BTW some bikes before '88 are no longer browsable on parts fiche of Kawasaki Japan website
I have found errors on fiche info on other websites so you normally have to research several to confirm numbers and superseded parts

from Wiseco IF its not their own manufactured part (mainstream market bikes) it will likely be a PRO-X item (for the less common and US import models)

http://www.wiseco.com/ProductDetail.asp ... AppID=6643