I'm oily, covered in muck and smell

[scooble]

of petrol.

AHHHH!
Got a Brands track day on monday, got my bike back from the machine shop last week (new fairing stays). Started it up, runs fine.

Got some 1000 EXUP carb rubbers off ebay, spent yesterday fettling them to make them fit.
Fitted the 35mm carbs. Started it up and it only ran on one cylinder.
It was getting late so went to bed.
Today, got up early, took the carbs apart and found one of the pilot jets sitting in the float boal. Screwed it in, started it up - fine.
Later on took off the airbox to make some minor mods.
Put it back on and it wouldn't start. Bumped it, nothing.
Plugs were wet, dried them off, put them back. Still wont start.
Put the 28mm carbs back on. Start it up, runs on the right, but may get a few puffs of smoke from the left when I rev it.
Took the plugs out, heated them up. Put them back in. Now it won't run at all. Sparks on on both.
Fed up and pi$$ed off.
Tomorrow I'll try fresh fuel (old stuff is about 8 months old) - have the same problem with my strimmer in that it hates old fuel.
I have spare read blocks so might try them too as well as a compression test.......I really hate my bike!!

[JanBros]

sometimes the stupidest things can screw you up big time

I once spend 2 days trying to find out why my engine would stall when I turned the steering . in the end, I found out that "+" and "-" were reversed on the horn. this meant there was "+" on the outside metal off the horn. that isn't a real problem normaly, because it is mounted in rubbers, but it became a problem when buy turning the steer, my metal braided brake hoses touched the horn ...

[scooble]

I got the bike running (or so I thought), fouled one set of B10 plugs (which I only used once last time out).
Put another set of B10's (which seemed Ok)
First session managed 1 lap firring on 1 cylinder.
Next session, I installed set of B9's - ran on two, but felt gutless and wouldn't run past 9k.
Changed back to the 28mm carbs (from 35mm) and it instantly felt crisp and responsive. Started upping my pace getting quicker.
Next session done a few fast laps and noticed prior to being tuned, it would rev to 10.5k and stop dead. Now with the farnham tune, it revs right round to 11.5k. Unfortunatley, it got stuck in 4th gear and wouldn't go up or down. I reckon I must have bent a selector fork. so may be on the lookout for a KR1S set

[mj43]

Trisha

Somewhere I have posted the 35mm carb settings I use. Stock air box with cold air feed (not pressurised)

Pretty certain the needle is DEL (which is different to the KR-1R)
Main jets is a 155 to 158 (KR-1R is 145)
Slide is Stock KR-1R
Air screw is stock?

Bike starts first kick usually.

Revs on a stock tacho you should easily hit 12,500 (I go to 13 occasionally)
If it is not reving it might be alternator windings are on the way out.
Which black box are you using KR-1 or 1S?

Plugs I take it you are using iridium BR10EIX or BR9EIX or Nippon Denso equivalent from memory W31. Found that stock plugs BR9ES and BR10ES don't work very well.

Regards

Mark

[scooble]

Looking at my carb setting, I suspect that it was running much too rich.

Mains #160
Pilot #52
Needle # CGL
Slide #6

I started off with a set of BR10EG's (which I used last time out on an untuned engine) - One of them fowled early on, so I changed to a set of BR10ES's but only ran on 1 cylinder for 1 lap.
I then swapped to a set of BR9ES's which managed two laps but wouldn't rev past 8.5k.
I then changed back to the PWK28's running 142 mains and it felt very crisp. I did 1 session building up speed. The next session I did about 6 quick laps (everything ran fine, revved out very well) before the selector fork bent and ruined my day apart from doing 2 laps on a friends wobbly FZ750 (which that felt like a pissed pregnant cow on roller skates with warped discs)

just getting warmed up

[mgtkr1]

have had a strange problem myself recently, the bike would hesitate, as if there was a flat spot but wouldnt clear and then rev. i usually have a nice power delivery right from the get go with the occasional stutter after sustained low speed/revs. anyhow, after many plug/coil swaps and carb strips it tuned out to be a dislodged baffle. i have nikons and the baffle tube braks were the baffle slides into the alloy silencer stub. worth a check scoob? for what its worth i run a total loss/nikons/35mm carbs/terry sheperd barrels/my cases (more or less mj clones) tz pistons and (irc) 0.7, poss 0.8 squish. i also use 50/50 avgas. i want to run a std airbox with a cold airfeed but run a big fibreglass atm. works well but i beleive a std box is good enough, plus i can run a filter. my carbs mj 155
pilot 40, no 6 slides and unsure on needles. btw, las time out i only had 5 gears aswell, couldnt get 6th!!