SQUIRTING OIL

NOSHER · Post by **NOSHER** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 11:48 am

I`ve had my kr1 sitting around in my garage for around 15 years without being on the road whilst i repaired the accident damage that came with it when it was bought ,and also restoring another 3 bikes and it was started and run up to temperature every month or so.I started it last week in the garage and when warmed up revved it to 8000 to check the KIPS were opening and to my horror found the end wall in the garage covered in an oily mix!!revved it again and a petroily liquid literally hosed out of the lh end can again although it was still running and revving on both cylinders.
Any suggestions as to possible fault---it still starts with one prod on the kickstart and idles smoothly.
cheers

dandan0162 · Post by **dandan0162** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 12:22 pm

hi nosher,mine use to do the same,what may have happend is un- burnt fuel/2 stroke in your exhaust from when you have started her previously and its not been running on both cylinders?then when its started on both its shot all over you garage,could be caused by oily or bad plug,coil,poor fuel,dirty carbs,?or even 2 stroke is veery rich?check allinment?i would clean the carbs/plugs, fresh fuel?if you havnt allready,and i would clean the exhausts people recomend coustic soda but i use petrol for mine and if you do remove your stinger first or you will have no packing left and one noisy kr

cheers danny

NOSHER · Post by **NOSHER** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 12:54 pm

dandan0162 wrote:hi nosher,mine use to do the same,what may have happend is un- burnt fuel/2 stroke in your exhaust from when you have started her previously and its not been running on both cylinders?then when its started on both its shot all over you garage,could be caused by oily or bad plug,coil,poor fuel,dirty carbs,?or even 2 stroke is veery rich?check allinment?i would clean the carbs/plugs, fresh fuel?if you havnt allready,and i would clean the exhausts people recomend coustic soda but i use petrol for mine and if you do remove your stinger first or you will have no packing left and one noisy kr cheers danny

hi dan thanks for all your suggestions but the 15 years i`ve spent on the bike have been, apart from the welding and cosmetic work and spraying panels, cleaning adjusting and replacing plugs(iridium) reeds(replace)carbs (strip clean replace float needles adjust float height)replace coils and leads adjust oil pump stroke clean air filter new fuel new putoline oil caustic soda treatment for the expansion chambers(cans removed first) so i think everything you have mentioned i have already done--now i`m wondering if i have a worn crank seal which is sucking oil out of the gearbox--is that likely--hope not retired funds are too low for a rebuild!!

ScottaKR · Post by **ScottaKR** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 2:32 pm

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it definately sounds like the crank seals have failed.

They have almost certainly gone britle after sitting for so long.

Luders · Post by **Luders** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 2:44 pm

I have to agree with Scott. Check your transmission oil level to confirm.

Crank rebuild, including seals are between £200 - £250.

dandan0162 · Post by **dandan0162** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 2:54 pm

hmm it does sound like it but i can remember when my mates seals went and there was the blackest cloud of smoke iv seen!? not a petroly liquid which i had before but sorted it,

i thought if it was on the left it would just leak 2stroke in to stator plate side?,have you got a puller to remove fly wheel and check?

micricco · Post by **micricco** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 3:17 pm

if it has been stood for so long,the seals do dry out and go hard.i used to race 250 superkarts and 1 of my engines did exactly the same,only way to cure it was new crank seals sorry,but the contents out of exhaust exactly the same as you describe

smithyrc30 · Post by **smithyrc30** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 4:02 pm

If it was the crank seals and consuming gearbox oil, surely it would come out of the right hand pot, not the left hand?

The left hand carb has the vacuum feed for the fuel tap and the description is Petrol oil mix.

I suspect the vacuum tap diaphragm has failed, gone brittle and hard and is allowing fuel to pass from the tap into the vacuum port in front of the carb.

I would not run it until you have stripped the tap, and it might be prudent to drop the engine out to empty any fuel out of the crank case that might be lying there. If not there is a danger of the crank bearings on the left hand side having all the oil washed off them and then them failing due to lack of lubrication.

Cheers

NOSHER · Post by **NOSHER** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 8:03 pm

thanks all you guys that have replied to my problem--some with death sentences on my bottom end (pardon me )and some with avenues i had not considered---i`ll investigate all shortly and post my findings.thanks to all again for your prompt postings.
col

boggy · Post by **boggy** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 9:45 pm

It's not good for the engine to just start it and let it idle then switch it off.It needs a good run to blast out any unburnt oil and to evaporate any condensation as it's this that kills crank bearings/shaft.If the engine is not going to be used for a long time the only way to preserve the crank seals is to take the crank out of the engine and fully submerge it in an oil bath.When i bought my bike the engine had only been started up every month by the previous owner.When i took it for a blast there was a massive blue cloud of smoke which eventually cleared.However on returning and inspecting the bike there was a lot of oil sprayed over the back end from the stingers!!Also discovered the petrol tap was leaking have repaired it with a kit and bike seems fine now.

NOSHER · Post by **NOSHER** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 9:56 pm

hi boggy--gonna check out the fuel tap diaphragm tomorrow-if its gone i`ll swop it out for one of my spares and if that checks out will take it after warming up for a long scream down the a10--kill or cure---clean the oily pipe or blow the lump!!

boggy · Post by **boggy** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 10:05 pm

As long as you use fully synthetic oil you'll be fine.Just make sure your left hand is ready to whip in the clutch!!! $\:D/$

NOSHER · Post by **NOSHER** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 10:12 pm

running full synth-------left hand always poised--watch this space!!!!!

NOSHER · Post by **NOSHER** » Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:24 pm

checked out the fuel tap(petcock)every thing as it should be, diaphragm ok no leaking fuel on standdown so took the end cans off to save oiling up the baffles any worse on the lh side started up got nice and warm on the temp guage and gradually raise revs to 8000 and proceeded to nicely lubricate the rear chain, and sprocket,and wheel rim and tyre and when the wind changed, the seat unit, petrol tank and me!!!after ten minutes of this i was really p****d off and about to call it a day when----------the oil stopped spraying out completely !and just to make sure sans end cans i ragged it for a mile or so at extreme decibels(luverly sound)down the a10(no camera section) much to the disgust of the queue at the bus stop and on return placed white tissue over the pipes outlets and not a spot of oil emitted soooooooooooo problem cured-----right now i need uh oh yes mot/tax/insurance(naughty boy)
Thanks for all you suggestions guys.

Howie · Post by **Howie** » Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:43 pm

down the a10

ah, that brings back memories. One of my fave routes when I was in the South

right now i need uh oh yes mot/tax/insurance(naughty boy)

Bad Nosher, bad boy, in your bed!

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