Hybrid on the wrong forum

john-b · Post by **john-b** » Sat Nov 24, 2012 6:45 pm

Ok i will probably put this on another forum to but anyway here we go my hybrid project. I know it looks like a tall order but on the plus side it has matching numbers which doesnt actually matter to me

Its also no worse than what i normally start of with the last pic is how my black and green KR looked when i bought it. Im aiming for about a month maybe a little longer. First job is to have a sort out and make some space.

Did i mention im an optimist

375 · Post by **375** » Sat Nov 24, 2012 7:05 pm

Good job its along winter, i agree out with the dustpan and brush first

Keep photos coming, ive had a couple of power valves,

John, iam on the look out for a good pair of original end cans for a 1s, don't have any going do you?

john-b · Post by **john-b** » Sat Nov 24, 2012 8:42 pm

Original end cans are the one thing i dont have, i never liked the look of them so i run swarbricks.

I tided up once but then it just got over run with RD and RGV bits the last couple of weeks, im not sure if thats good or bad really

only time will tell.

Going to try to make a start tomorrow on ebaying what i wont need, that should free up some space

375 · Post by **375** » Sat Nov 24, 2012 9:14 pm

Wouldn't happen to have an lc speedo mph,

Ive got rgv running gear on my lc,

What running gear you using.

john-b · Post by **john-b** » Sun Nov 25, 2012 8:06 pm

I havent got an LC one im afraid i was going to run rgv clocks i think so the speedo reads right.

The plan is to build it onto the spare frame im not going mad just a clean useable bike not one im afraid to get wet. Then restore the one with the engine in at the mo to a standard rolling chassis then if i put the engine back in i have a matching numbers bike if that makes any sense? Either way i want it to look pretty much as Yamaha intended.

I was going to use a braced arm then i was going to run an rgv front end with a standard swingarm and brembo 3.5 yamaha rear tzr rear wheel.
Thats changed again now though as i dropped on a complete front and rear end with a bannana arm with all the fitting kit so it will all bolt straight on.
The other bonus is i dont have to alter the frame this way but as far as i can make out from various forums you do with the braced arm so you cant put it back to standard by just unbolting bits.

Im presuming i have that right if not let me know along with anymore pitfalls as im sure you and HC are far more knowledgeable than me on the subject.

I think i have seen your LC in a post somewhere is it the black one? Looks nice if its the one i thinking.

375 · Post by **375** » Sun Nov 25, 2012 9:06 pm

Yes mine is the black one,

I have sent away a spare set of rgv forks for anodizing upper tubes and titanium nitride coating on the stanchions and caliper mount powder coated silver, the colour will be identical to Ohilins when finished and with some new springs. $\:D/$

My lc frame has not been chopped about so i can do the same and put it back to standard with matching numbers

Once i have swapped over the forks and re-greased head bearings i what to look at may be getting a Nitron shock which has some adjustment built in as i have a Hagon at the moment which was built to a standard lc lenght + 20mm extra (longer lower eyelet) which gives an extra 40mm in height at the rear or i might see how much Hagon charge to change the lenght?

What everyone has found when doing the rgv rear is some need off set front sprocket and some dont and they can vary in how much, mine was not to bad and has a ypvs sprocket spacer behind instead of an lc one which is shorter

That was a good find getting all the parts you needed to convert for the ypvs think its extra long dog bones? not sure, keep putting some photos up.

john-b · Post by **john-b** » Tue Nov 27, 2012 10:53 pm

That should look brilliant. I dont think mine is going to be as grand as yours or hc,s somehow

Thanks for the sprocket info all the bits of info add up and then you can apply them to various degrees to what you were doing i find. The kit is the same as the NK one i think but its been made so you can adjust the rear ride height. I was thinking standard as oppsoed to jacked up so it makes your wrists hurt, i must be getting old?

Not done much i put the running gear on im thinking just build it and run it over winter and see if i like it after the BSA starfire disaster

I also have an idea for paint but im not sure if it will look right so im going to try it with a silver frame first and if its pants the other frame will be black anyway. It saves painting it or having it coated only to realise it doesnt go. Bars are ZXR at the mo but i think im going for risers from a Gp100/125 because they are low and flat bars but that could change.

Engine removed and my original TZR wheels loosely fitted so i can move it around and into the shed out of the way for now.

The bores look ok so i have dropped the head back on and now if it stops raining long enough i need to power wash all the crap off the rolling chassis and engine then i can check the ring gaps and see if i need a rebore etc. Im hoping not because im tight

375 · Post by **375** » Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:51 pm

Looking good there John,

My risers are welded on some turn the top yoke up side down and drill right the way through the two threaded holes that are under there and bolt there risers on that way (on my lc i used the holes to mount my clock bracket to them) lower yoke has had the lock stops cut and moved so bars dont hit the tank.
Look like your top yoke is not rgv vj22.

My risers are from M,P and bars are Renthals ultra low,

What colour bodywork do you have at the moment.

375 · Post by **375** » Wed Nov 28, 2012 6:31 pm

Found this picture.
The chain runs very close to the tyre, that chain is a 520, so i fitted a heavy duty one which give a bit more clearance and has been ok.

john-b · Post by **john-b** » Sat Dec 01, 2012 12:11 am

Top yoke is a billet one that came with it although i do have the standard one too, body works there is 2 lots all F2 but only one top fairing and thats a bit lets just say not the best

I really wanted standard bodywork etc although unfaired will be ok for this build aslong as its useable while i sort out the final plan.

That bike of yours looks lovely is the motor standard? More to the point how much better do they handle than a standard one or is it worse? no one seems to mention that

375 · Post by **375** » Sat Dec 01, 2012 1:04 am

All the pv's and lc's i have had,have all had standard engines i don't like tunning or messing about with pod filters etc, just running gear

Standard engine/carbs/airbox

Ride wise its much better, it's abit longer than a standard lc, it fills like a bigger bike but as i mentioned before i would like to sort out the rear shock and lower it a little bitt as it has unsettled me a few times but overall yep great fun.
Not as sharp as the kr as we all know

john-b · Post by **john-b** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 1:03 am

i would hope its not as sharp as a kr

i think it defeats the object if it is.

I will crack on then im just putting the engine back together but i cant get the finish i want on the head so im going to have to compromise i wanted an old school look as in used bare alloy not polished. Any idea would be good

john-b · Post by **john-b** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 8:22 pm

ok sort of done the engine, everything seems ok so im going to run it and see. If not i have a fresh crank thats just been rebuilt but it looks to have been done so im going to risk it.

I was trying for the retro look as i always liked the unpainted heads on the old race bikes so i painted the barrels but just stripped the paint off the head and pv cable boxI havent polished them but rather left them rough and gave the head a coat of laquer to try and achive a patina of age but im not sure if its working

Think i will have to drop it in the frame and see, any thoughts appreciated

john-b · Post by **john-b** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:53 pm

Its been a bit cold so i havent done much but the dry build is still going ok just the usual problems with spacing as i want to use as many original and period parts as i can. I just want it to look updated not like another bike.

Besides i have never seen the point of making an RGV or KR or whatever look like whatever you pinched the fairing off, i mean why not just buy one of those?

No electrics or anything fitted yet i want to be sure the chassis has no issues first. The swingarm uses the centre stand mount as a pivot point so i got a longer bolt and have done it so it screws into the mounts on one side and has a nut on aswell to lock it in place. A bit belt and braces maybe but better safe than sorry. I sorted the risers with some billet ones and altered the holes to use four bolts as i dont want them welded on.

so i dropped on the bodywork loose to see if my silver frame and bare alloy bits will work and give myself an incentive. It always helps when you can see a bike.
Im thinking it will work and i might even get away with a standard paint job

but im not sure yet the candy red with black speed blocks might still win

Anyway it looks like this at the mo, the pipes are Micron GP

john-b · Post by **john-b** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 12:53 am

Just thought one for HC or 375 do i need a standard front sprocket on to work out the offset?