I would,nt drill a hole martin.
I would tack weld a bolt or something were the dent is and use a slide
hammer to pull the dent out, then once dent is out, cut off the bolt or
rivet and then rub down the exhaust
never used a slide hammer before, so not sure how a pin/rivet or
similar would fit,
I reckon you will find it on the net, unless someone on here knows.
if you tack a nut on the end of a bit of round bar this will join to whatever old allen bolts or stud you want to tack to the exhaust, and use whatever comes to hand for the sliding weight ,i knocked this up quick and only used it once
.
.
you can make plates that bolts to the header flange and tail
in one plate install a shraeder (tyre valve)
(friend who did mine turned a header plug out of plastic)
so seal up the ends
pump in some air
heat local area with a welding torch
expansion, soft metal - pop out
(just remember if you are using compressed air it provides a possible dangerous combustion with oil-fuel residues that may be in the pipe with heat and pressure)
...basically similar to how GIBSONs are made (hydroforming)
good question,as far as i know the LC Lomas pipes usually mean the stand has to be removed and to me these pipes look like someoe has decided they want to keep the stand and attack the pipes
personally ide cut the dent out and weld in a new bit yer not going to pull that out,what material thickness are they ,i could roll a few blanks up oversize so you can get a local tig ladd to stich em in
Well just had a few emails with the main Lomas importer and yes the dents had been put there by the factory
They also claimed,they tested the dented and non dented back to back on the dyno and there was no difference
Bikemike wrote:Blimey, that "Factory" dent looks like it was done by a toddler with a sledgehammer!
I know
I said to them how can they make beautiful welded pipes and then do that to them :-&
Surely if it was a clearance issue they could have welded flats on