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all the early KR1 pistons came like that (not 100% PTFE coated though like the kit ones were) - yours will have remains of antiscuff coating/stripes down the skirt exhaust port lube holes
...very clean piston, yours - check the ring pegs/pins - they are probably halfway above the ring grooves - a 13001-1354 piston
the skirt port (& tunnel) will PARTIALLY ! expose ! the 2 B (aux/sub) transfer ports ~10mm stroke (~16°) earlier than the piston crown does on the A transfers (MTR), B transfers (STR) and rear Boost port
the 2 transfer ports are partially uncovered
much earlier by the tunnel in the piston but nothing will actually flow through 'OPEN' until the crown of the piston (stroke) reaches where the exhaust port starts to open and the whole system can start to move.
BUT I'd say the hole needs to be almost twice as tall to have any real effect (more than a mere couple of degrees) and without the wider width of the KR-1S sub-exhausts doesnt get a chance to bridge/cross flow - see discussion on gudgeon pin plugs (and how two adjacent port might cross contaminate by way of piston hole)
first to open is also last to close
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8sidsux9D0
the skirt port might extend the scavenging duration somewhat and affect the initial direction...
you might have the ability to alter a cylinders timing characteristic - just by changing a piston without altering the barrel
(dont quote me on the fag packet ideas and maths though - and NONE of the magazines actually determined what that HOLE did)
it has the definite potential to leak fresh charge, down a wider sub exhaust port, into the header before being followed by some burning combustion gases - maybe not so flash, think KawasakiAntiLagSystem without a turbo or retarded ignition.
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